5/12/2023 0 Comments Barbarians surfing![]() ![]() A hollow wave was roaring off into deeper water. The laws of physics appeared to have been relaxed. The wave felt like a test of faith, or a test of sanity, or an enormous, undeserved gift. Here he is on Tavarua, in Fiji, riding the last wave of the day: These emotions include discovery, fear, and “a dopamine rush that was both familiar and rare, that required nerve and experience.” There is hardship, deprivation, physical drubbing, injuries, and “near-drowning.”įinnegan also experiences the awe inspired by majestic waves. By contrast, the subject of a life spent surfing the iconic waves of the planet, such as Honolua, Tavarua, Kirra, Ocean Beach, and Jardim, gives Finnegan a canvas for the array of emotions elicited by encounters with violence-perhaps because surfing entails immersion in natural beauty. If Barbarian Days eschews delving into this parallel, it is perhaps because for a reporter to dwell on personal emotions amidst the pervasive human suffering he witnesses would be obscene. ![]()
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